A Brief History of Rice in Malta

🍚🌾Ross fil-forn is high on my list of traditional, nourishing Maltese comfort foods. This one is made with puy lentils substituting for beef in a basic bolognese sauce with carrots, peas, a bay leaf, and the addition of beaten eggs, seasoning, and grated pecorino cheese. There’s something so satisfying about a warm dish of baked rice, its golden, crispy top layer adding that perfect crunch—one that reminds me of the bottom crust of a Persian tahdig.

But have you ever wondered how rice became such a staple in Malta? The story of this humble grain is a fascinating one.

The Arabs played a crucial role in introducing ingredients common in Persian cuisine to Malta, including rice, artichokes, citrus fruits, and sugar. Originally, rice was considered an exotic product, sold in spice shops rather than as an everyday ingredient. It wasn’t until the 15th century that rice cultivation began in Lombardy, making it more widely available in Mediterranean markets.

By the medieval era, Maltese cuisine had absorbed influences from both Sicilian and Spanish traditions. Records show that as early as 1429, 400 kg of rice was being stored in Castrum Maris (now Fort St Angelo). Like potatoes in the 19th century, rice was initially viewed as an emergency food rather than a staple. In 1635, when wheat imports dwindled to just a week's supply, authorities distributed rice and barley as substitutes. But over time, rice began to take its rightful place on the Maltese table.

The chaplains of the Order of St John in Rabat prepared rice dishes during Lent, and archives even contain a recipe for rice cooked with almond milk. In 1676, Maltese corsairs seized a significant amount of rice from Muslim ships near Crete. By the 18th century, rice had firmly established itself in Malta’s diet—so much so that German knights stationed here had special silver spoons made specifically for eating rice.

One of the earliest recorded rice dishes is Qazquza bir-riss or Qazquza fuq ix-xini, an 18th-century recipe featuring pork baked in earthenware with milk, blood, rice, cheese, and onions. By the late 19th century, E.L.V’s 1894 cookbook Ctieb tal-Chċina (Book of the Kitchen) featured several rice recipes, including Ross fil-Forn and Bomba tar-Ross.

For many Maltese, Ross fil-Forn and Imqarrun (baked macaroni) are the stars of neverending Sunday family luncheons.

Herbert Ganado, in his memoirs, recalls these dishes dominating the table in his childhood. I, too, remember my mother adding a layer of béchamel sauce on top for extra richness. Interestingly, a similar dish exists in Japan—Doria, named after the 16th-century Genoese admiral Andrea Doria. This yōshoku (Western-inspired Japanese dish) features rice, sautéed meat, and vegetables, topped with béchamel and cheese.

Do you have any family traditions or special twists when making Ross fil-Forn? Would love to hear them! 🌍🍴

Written with reference to:

Gambin, K. and Buttigieg, N. (2003) Storja ta’ l-Ikel f’Malta. Malta: PIN (Publikazzjonijiet Indipendenza).

Cremona, M. (2021) Dinner in Malta in a Series of Vignettes 1530-1930. Valletta, MidseaBooks.

Toussaint-Samat, M. (2008) A History of Food (2nd Edition). Wiley-Blackwell.